Gold Dig #49

Shunji is a Japanese restaurant on the west side. I had driven past it dozens of times, always thinking it was an odd-looking building but never feeling inclined to think that the squat silo in a not particularly welcoming area on Pico might have even decent sushi. So I was stunned to discover that Shunji makes a regular appearance fairly high on Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants list. My friend’s Lyft driver was genuinely concerned about dropping her off by the welding yard, and we came to understand why when were accosted by a guy who appeared to be on something as we walked toward the front door, but once inside we discovered a small, elegant space that utilized the round building to its advantage.

The Dish

There is an a la carte menu and daily specials of what’s most fresh that day, but really the omakase is the way to go. They curate the best of the day, and will check in with you about half way through to see how full you are and determine how many more courses will complete your meal. You can choose a strictly sushi omakase, but I recommend the Shunji omakase, which includes incredible sushi but also mixes in some other unique bites you might not otherwise order or have ever heard of.

Mushroom blend

This was a purée of mushrooms topped with bits of abalone. I enjoyed this intensely earthy dish, which was deep with umami and super satisfying even though it was just a small tea-sized cup. My dining-mate thought it a bit too earthy.

Mixed plate

This work of art consisted of mini conch, tofu, octopus, fish cake, monk fish liver with caviar, and purple yam with blue cheese filling. We were warned that the monk fish liver was very rich and should be eaten in small bites. It was indeed rich, but delicious. My surprise favorite was the purple yam with blue cheese filling, which was just a touch sweet and topped with dried persimmon which which gave a nice chew to complement the creaminess.

Sashimi

The first sashimi we had were these wonderfully delicate pieces of amberjack topped with thinly sliced jalapeño. Pure and buttery, with nothing to interfere with the fresh flavor of the fish.

Gorgonzola tofu

While called “tofu” because of its look and texture, this soft and smooth cube of Gorgonzola goodness doesn’t actually have any tofu in it. The subtle sweetness and velvety mouth feel was really nice. And that tiny tomato was not just an aesthetic garnish – it was the sweetest pop of pure tomato flavor I have ever had.

Sashimi

Our next plate of sashimi did not disappoint. It’s hard to put into words how perfect the fish is at Shunji. I usually like a touch of wasabi and soy, but here I wouldn’t even have dreamed of masking the incredible flavor of this fish with it. Tuna toro is of course always a winner.

Snapper mushroom noodle soup

When you are eating some of the purest fresh fish you’ve ever had, it’s hard to get excited about a bowl of noodle soup. So I have to admit this was the sleeper hit of the meal for me. The snapper was delicate, the mushroom added pops of texture, and the broth itself was deeply flavorful. I found myself scraping the bottom of the bowl for every last drop.

Sashimi

More of the most truly amazing sashimi I have ever had. Every piece of fish they give you is incredible. My favorites were the tuna otoro and the bonito. At this point I was so tempted to ask for another course, but I managed to restrain myself.

Chocolate mousse

For dessert, there are several ice creams and sorbets to choose from, or you can get chocolate mousse. While chocolate mousse doesn’t seem like something a Japanese restaurant would be excellent at, I was drawn to it for some reason. And it turned out to be some of the best chocolate mousse I have ever had. Definitely get this to finish off your amazing meal!