Gold Dig #32

Soban is another Koreatown spot on Jonthan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants list. They have his picture and review prominently displayed on the wall opposite the door. You can’t miss it, as Soban is a pretty small place. Half the restaurant is filled with a handful of tables, and the other half the bar seating area. Though don’t be confused by the term “bar”, as there is no alcohol served or allowed in this restaurant.

The Dish

Soban is pretty much known for 3 dishes, and the abundant and high quality banchan (small dishes) which come with your meal. Theirs is some of the best banchan I’ve had, and the waitress is great about asking if you want refills, though there’s so much of it that even I hardly found it necessary. The waitress is also quick to point out their 3 most popular dishes, which are showcased on the wall next to Jonathan Gold’s picture – Galbi Jim (braised short ribs), Eundaegu Jorim (spicy braised black cod), and Ganjang Ge Jang (soy sauce marinated raw crab).

Galbi Jim

You can get the braised short ribs regular or spicy. We decided to get them regular because the braised cod comes spicy. Jonathan Gold, however, recommends getting the Galbi Jim spicy. I wish we’d listen to him, as this was a nice unctuous stew, but couldn’t hold a candle to the spicy braised cod.

Eundaegu Jorim

The spicy braised cod was heavenly. It manages to be sweet and spicy with a rich intensity that somehow doesn’t overwhelm the fish. I enjoyed the chewiness of the rice cakes and the sweet kabocha squash picked up the flavor of the sauce nicely. I finished the meal by getting a final bowl of rice which I scooped up every remaining bit of the sauce onto.

My dining-mate was not super stoked about the prospect of raw crab, so we didn’t get the Ganjang Ge Jang. I’m fascinated to try it. Next time I’ll be getting the marinated raw crab, and the braised short ribs spicy. Plus multiple helpings of some of my favorite banchan – the fish cakes, noodles, and peppers with seafood.